| catbert |
How do you get the radio out of this thing? My husband is going to install my XM this week, and wanted to know. He installs radios for a living, but he is doing this one for me, and he has to live with me if he makes a scratch, etc.
He says that with Hondas, you have to take off a lot to get to the screws that detach the radio, and figures the same for the Pilot. Sometimes you can pop off A/C vents to get to them, and sometimes you have to go other routes.
Anyone out there taken out your radio or know how it was done? I would really appreciate the information. |
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| xyzzy |
You may want to PM SoapPlant. I know that he had his apart. From what I understand, the hardest part was getting the surrounding trim off without knicking it.
Chris |
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| SteveLuman |
| Taking the radio out is very simple. Remove the top right plug and pull the trim away from the right to the left. Be careful not to break the clips. Then you will need a Phillips screwdriver and remove 4 screws. Unplug the antenna and 3 plugs....that's it. |
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| SoapPlant |
quote:
Originally posted by SteveLuman
Taking the radio out is very simple. Remove the top right plug and pull the trim away from the right to the left. Be careful not to break the clips. Then you will need a Phillips screwdriver and remove 4 screws. Unplug the antenna and 3 plugs....that's it.
Hey SteveLuman,
Are you speaking from personal experience? I see that you have the Alpine CD changer in your RES Pilot. Did you install it yourself, of did you have someone install it for you?
Speaking from my personal experience, I would not agree with characterization of this as a "very simple" process. And I disagree with the recommendation of just popping out the upper right hand plug and pulling off the trim that way. Maybe you're just better at it than me though?
After knicking up the trim panel, and knicking up the vents directly under the radio (did I mention that they're molded right into the entire passenger side dash panel?), I too got the bright idea of trying to pry out the upper right button and get ahold of it that way. All that resulted in was a knicked up upper right hand button!
Sure, it looked simple enough - with that little hole just sitting out there begging to be tampered with. Well, now that I finally got the plug out and can see how deep it really is, I realize that there was no way I was going to pry that out with a screwdriver, without wrecking the entire piece. I've attached a picture so that you can see how deep this button really is. Looks like you would need something very long and skinny to slide all the way in so that you could get under the bottom clip. Then maybe you would have a chance at getting it out. |
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| SoapPlant |
| Here is another angle, that shows the depth of the plug in better detail. I do agree that once you're able to get the trim piece started, the rest comes off pretty easily. Its just the getting started part that's tough! Then the screws, and plugs in the back are pretty simple. |
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| SoapPlant |
quote:
Originally posted by xyzzy
You may want to PM SoapPlant. I know that he had his apart. From what I understand, the hardest part was getting the surrounding trim off without knicking it.
Chris
Yeah Chris, you're absolutely right! Thanks to your suggestion, I think I finally figured out the trick.
First, scrap the suggestion to use the flat tipped screwdriver wrapped in a towel. First of all, once you wrap it, its way too thick to fit in the gaps. Second, you'll be tempted to remove the towel, and that's when you WILL knick up the surrouding plastic.
The audio trim is easily replaced - Tim ordered me the replacement and it was under $15. We found out the hard way that the buttons are separate. Not sure on the price there, since Tim covered them for me. However, the surrounding dash, including the vents underneath are all one piece, and that will cost you around $50 to replace.
I was thinking along the same lines as Chris, and he just confirmed it to me. Once I received the replacement pieces from Tim, I had no fear of damaging any of the pieces more, so I went to town.
I would highly recommend using a small flat putty knife. Because of its thickness, it slips easily into the gaps. And because of the large surface area, there's no real need to wrap it in a shop towel. The large surface area really helps to prevent any gouges.
Next, its important to understand where the clips are. Just prying your way around, without hitting the location of the clips will get you nowhere quick. Once you get the first couple of clips started, then you can pull the rest off carefuly, and safely by hand.
Here is a snippet from the CD changer install that shows you the location of the clips. I think I started at the top and then carefully worked myself along to the right. Then the left just pulled off by hand.
Once you get the trim removed, the reast is pretty easy. Refer to the CD changer install directions to guide you.
http://www.handaaccessories.com/pilot/c%20dchanger.pdf |
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| SoapPlant |
| Here's the putty knife that I used. The blade was 3" long and 1 1/2" wide - not sure how thick it is. I picked it up real cheap at either someplace like a Lowes, Home Depot or WalMart. |
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| HenryFan |
| The audio panel only costs about $20 from Honda dealer. I have mine replaced after the installer left some scraches on it when installing the new head unit. |
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| SteveLuman |
Soap,
Yes I did the installation of my handfree kit and CD Changer myself. I still believe that this is a simple task. Having patience with the clips and not dinging up the dash were easy for me. That is just my opinion. Adding the backup sensors may be a son-of-a_____ for me, while it may be easy for others. |
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| xyzzy |
quote:
Originally posted by SteveLuman
Soap,
Yes I did the installation of my handfree kit and CD Changer myself. I still believe that this is a simple task. Having patience with the clips and not dinging up the dash were easy for me. That is just my opinion. Adding the backup sensors may be a son-of-a_____ for me, while it may be easy for others.
Yep. The backup sensors were easy for me. The dealer already had them on and I didn't even have to pay for them because I didn't ask for them. :D
Chris |
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| catbert |
Well, the XM is in, and no major damage to the edges of the radio. Just a couple of nicks, no more than 2 mm each.
Just so you will know, the Pioneer FM modulator of the XM radio fits nicely behind the radio/RES. Does everyone already know this? |
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| xyzzy |
It's also worth noting that Pioneer does make a cable that will take the output from their XM tuner and provide a set of line level outputs. This would allow you to either A) use the aux inputs that the RES system provides, or B) connect it to the CD Changer connector via another Changer-to-line level conversion cable. Option A will cost you about $45 and option B will cost you about double that. Option A would require you to either have a set of RCA jacks always sticking out of our aux inputs, or I guess you could pull the aux RCAs back into the console and just hide the connectors.
While FM modulators have come a long way, line level inputs provide a better signal and improved frequency response. Just another option.
Chris |
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| sbabcock |
Does anyone know the pinouts for the connection
to the multi-CD changer? I would like to use that
connection to make a line in for my CD/Cassette
player so I can plug in my MP3 player.
Where would I look for that? |
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| xyzzy |
I've seen cables for this that run $50 or less depending on where you find it. I'm not sure if a straight pinout would do it because the head unit might be looking for for a "response" from a changer or a certain resistance on a particluar pin and won't change to that source unless this condition exists. Why do I think this might be the case? Turn on your stereo, hit the CD/CD Changer button a couple of times. Notice that it doesn't cycle over to Changer because it knows there isn't anything there. It could also be that just any connector plugged in, regardless of type would trigger it, but I'm not positive. The aftermarket cables that I mentioned could have enough circuitry to trick the head unit into thinking there is a changer present. Just a thought.
Chris |
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| sbabcock |
| True, it may need some signal, but it is more likely that there are 3-4 pins which are the audio input and one or more pins that tell it it has an external source. It may be as simple as supplying some voltage to a pin (saying there is an external device) and providing the audio in. That is why I want the pinout. If I am going to pay $50 to $100, I want to know why. I can understand if you want the functionality of a multiple CD changer and all that entails, but if all I want is an audio input, I could build a switch that tells it "external audio input" and provide the signal. |
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| sbabcock |
I am still trying to find information on the pinout of the 14 Pin CD Changer. The Pilot electrical manual just shows the 14 pins, not their functions. I have looked all over the web without success.
Is this some sort of secret so that the interface companies can charge an arm and a leg?
All I want to do is create an audio in for my mp3 player, not attach a CD player. The HON-AUXB1 is about $100. I might be able to eventually find it for $50, but for $2 worth of wire? Get real.
Who makes the Honda Radio? I would like to dig around their web site to see if can get the pinout. It seems to me there should be a Lin, Lgnd, Rin, Rgnd, and something to tell the radio that a CD changer is attached. I can ignore the rest. |
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| renov8r |
I think this info is available in one of the detalied shop publications.
You may need to spend some cash, but all the wire functions and color codes are in there. It is intended to cover all the detail needed to make up a new harness. If you trace the wire locations to the connector level, you'd have pin out function...
quote:
Originally posted by sbabcock
I am still trying to find information on the pinout of the 14 Pin CD Changer. The Pilot electrical manual just shows the 14 pins, not their functions. I have looked all over the web without success.
Is this some sort of secret so that the interface companies can charge an arm and a leg?
All I want to do is create an audio in for my mp3 player, not attach a CD player. The HON-AUXB1 is about $100. I might be able to eventually find it for $50, but for $2 worth of wire? Get real.
Who makes the Honda Radio? I would like to dig around their web site to see if can get the pinout. It seems to me there should be a Lin, Lgnd, Rin, Rgnd, and something to tell the radio that a CD changer is attached. I can ignore the rest.
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| SteveLuman |
| The Head Unit is Panasonic. |
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| sbabcock |
Wow! You all are fantastic!
And to think I worked for 2 hours this weekend trying to trace out the signals on the radio without much success.
So, it looks like there is only one Audio input, the audio common. What is it, digital? I was really expecting to see an analog Lin, Lgnd, Rin, Rgnd, and some control signals. It looks like it might be a digital connection. I guess I'll have to buy the interface.
So, is there _anywhere_ to buy this HON-AUXB1 interface? I checked at Blitzsafe, and they wanted $108 to get it. Someone here mentioned that I could find it on Ebay for $30 to $50, but I could not find it.
Does anyone have a hint of where to find this interface for a reasonable price? |
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| SteveLuman |
Hey sbabcock,
The newer interface cables you are looking for are not readily available at most stores or installers yet. I purchased the CD interface cable on eBay :
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...1377745601&rd=1
and installed the Alpine CHA-S634 Changer ($210.00-eBay) with the help of an Alpine KCA-130B AiNet Conversion Cable (Circuit City-$9.99 + tax) and now I can play MP3's, CD-R's, CD-RW's or audio CD's.
I have spoken to Blitzsafe lately, and I will soon purchase one of their newever interface cables which will allow me to use both my CD Changer + XM Radio (Pioneer) without RF and having to hardwire to power. They will supply all pioneer leads and I will be able to toggle between both the CD Changer & XM without losing sound quality )tricks the CD Changer). I have the part # for this adapter at work and will post it tomorrow. I think it runs about $108.00 directly from blitzsafe (AMEX or Money Orders only), but it is worth it to not lose any quality. Blitzafe will also custom make a plug that will work with jukeboxes also. Just call them and tell them what you need.
I guess that I will keep my current interface cable for my Accord. Good Luck. |
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| sbabcock |
| Yes, but I do not want to attach a multi-CD changer. I only want to have an auxillary input for my iPod. I cannot find where to buy that adapter and the model #/ |
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| PILOTHEAD |
| In the case of old accords and most Acura Alpine is the changer oem and the cable differnece is just taht 2 wires are interchanged from a standard starright cable i have heard that it is the same for pilot, and it looks the same but have not verified this. In the case of my 96 acura RL it was just the straight cable from Alpine, I think many head units will work with many differnet changers if you have the right cabling . as you can find on web sites. I made my own cable out of Cat-5 wire(computer networking and it works!) not pretty but its all behind the dash anyway also the changers on chyslers appear identical except for the chsylser badge...just for kicks i plugged it in to the acura and it worked too |
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