| tim.s |
So I was parked in front of a friend's house (in the street) across the street from a house under construction. Just my luck, the crew shows up to paint the outside trim on the new house. They were only working about 10 minutes before I noticed and moved my Pilot (I was leaving anyway).
I wasn't too worried because it seemed a long way for paint to drift and my Pilot was pretty dirty (I figured the dirt film would catch potential drift). But this also made it difficult to evaluate any potential damage at the time. Well, a now it's a few days later and I just washed my Pilot.
Sure enough, I have a fine layer of fine "white" spots on the hood, windshield, roof, and passenger side windows. The lower side, back, and opposite side are mostly okay. (Any other color except black and it wouldn't be so obvious.)
The good news is that the Builder is going to pay to have the spots removed. Also, I think it's probably latex (I'm going to ask next week) and it isn't bonded too well, because I can scratch it off fairly easily. However, this method isn't too practical considering the surface area affected.
So I need you Detailing experts to help me with the following:
- What is the best way to remove overspray (house paint) from my Pilot without harming the finish?
- Is this even possible or will I need a refinish?
- Should I try a body shop or a Detailer?
Whether I go to a body shop or a Detailer, I'd like to show up knowing what to expect or what treatment to ask for and which treatments to avoid. Has anyone had a similar experience?
Thanks in advance for your help.:7: |
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| Sunday Rider |
I ran over wet lines that road sprayers had used, so the bottom of the left side was sparyed. Not as big as your problem, but I used a clay bar, it took some time, but it all came off.
Wondering if that may help. You may try a small area frist and see. Then you can decide if a detailer will do it for you, since the other guy is paying. |
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| tim.s |
Thanks. I started thinking about the clay bar right away, but I don't know how agressive the scrubbing will need to be or how much follow up polishing would be required. And you are right, I'm going to let a shop take care of the labor it that the route I go.
I've read about a lot of different solvents that people use too. But that's a bit scarry, since I don't know what affect they would have on the clear coat and surface finish.
If I'm lucky, I get several suggestions for things that will work and some good warnings about things to avoid. I really don't want a body shop or Detailer making things worse. |
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| dragoncoach |
| Bring it to a GOOD detailer. He will make the Pilot's finish as good as new. This should be a piece of cake for someone with the proper knowledge and expertise. Why do it yourself. It will take your hours and the contractor is willing to pay for it anyway. Get it done correctly by a pro. Just check around and see who's been around awhile and check out the cars they detail. High line cars is usually a good sign. |
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| smurray |
I have to vote with Sunday Rider's suggestion. Clay bar was originally used by painters to remove overspray. Of course that was for automobile paint overspray but I don't imagine that it makes much of a difference.
I also don't think you need to be too agressive with the removal. Get a decent clay bar and lots of lube and lightly go over the surface where the overspray is. Turn the clay often and it shouldn't be a problem.
You may as well do the whole car while you're at it.
Most clay bars will remove some, if not all, of the wax on the vehicle so don't you'll want to wax the Pilot soon afterwards. |
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| Sunday Rider |
quote:
Originally posted by N_Jay
Have it detailed.
I have to take the worst case, that you will have to make sure the builder pays up. You get it detailed; it costs $xxx.xx and you have to chase the guy for payment.
If I can do it myself, I will. My dark take on human nature from experience. But you may have an honest guy here.
Just make sure you find a detailer that friends/associates have used and trust. |
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