| scguidry |
Can anyone offer advice on applying touch-up paint. Of course I am looking to get the best results!! Any recommendations for preparing the area, application, sealing etc etc.
My wife made the HUGE mistake of closing the garage door with the back of the PILOT still opened. Fortunately, I grabbed the door quickly and stopped any significant damage. So, now there is a small scratch on the rear door near the BIG H. Not big and certainly not bad enough to warrant a new paint job but big enough for the blemish to be noticeable.
scguidry
SageBrush - EXLRES |
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| N_Jay |
Is it through the clear coat?
Is it through the paint?
Maybe a close up picture would help.
In general you want to use as little as possible.
Mask all areas you do not want painted. e.g. tape right up to the edge of the scratch.
Use several light coats. Build up a bit higher than the original pain (very littel) and polish it down a week or two later.
There have been a few other threads with helpfull information.
Do a search, and see if it helps. |
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| scguidry |
Thanks for the info
The scratch is thru the clear cloat but not down to the metal. I will post a pic and do some research. Explain what you mean by "polish down"? Sorry to be ingnorant but I never owned a vehicle that I care so much about!! |
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| N_Jay |
When you are done building up the level of the paint in the scratch to the level around it, it will typically have a slight bump. You then have to smooth it down to make it flat. This must be done after the paint is fully dried, at least a week later. Two is better.
If the sratch does not go through the color to the primer, then the easiest thing to do may be to use clear coat touch up and not regular touchup paint.
I good test would be to gently polish the area and see how it looks.
If it looks fairly good, then clean it very well (remove all wax) and fill the scratch with clear coat touch up.
WHen you are done you will probably have a well hidden scratch without the risk of making bigger mess. |
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| xyzzy |
Depending on how much higher the paint is than the surrounding area (after drying) you may want to take very fine sandpaper, fold it in half, and use the edge to lightly get it close to the same level as the surrounding surface. From there I would use a swirl mark remover (3M SMR or similar) or even something a little more abrasive such as 3M's Perfect It II (followed by a scratch remover or the SMR). If it's just clear coat it should hide fairly well.
Chris |
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| MG Pilot |
| I had a very small portion of unpainted area on top of my spoiler...Since I am so anal, I could not leave it alone. I masked off all the areas I did not want painted, etc, etc. I go to work with the touch-up. What a mistake!!! I did not like the job I did so tried to wipe off the paint I just applied. Do NOT try this yourselves!!! I ended up creating a way bigger mess and actually ended up removing even more paint from the spoiler. To say I was pissed at myself, is an understatement. After I calmed down, I fixed it the best I could. Luckily, the spoiler is plastic and there is no rust issue. Now, I suppose I could sand down what I did start over, but I have a feeling it would be the same thing all over again. The point…touch-up, if not done by someone skilled, can end up looking way worse than any scratch… |
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| chiquita |
quote:
Originally posted by scguidry
Can anyone offer advice on applying touch-up paint. Of course I am looking to get the best results!! Any recommendations for preparing the area, application, sealing etc etc.
My wife made the HUGE mistake of closing the garage door with the back of the PILOT still opened. Fortunately, I grabbed the door quickly and stopped any significant damage. So, now there is a small scratch on the rear door near the BIG H. Not big and certainly not bad enough to warrant a new paint job but big enough for the blemish to be noticeable.
scguidry
SageBrush - EXLRES
I 'fess up--I did the same exact thing to the back of my Pilot last weekend, except I was opening, not closing the garage door. And unlike your wife, I did go down to the metal. I have two, six inch scratches in the same place. I almost died. I waited a whole day before I told my husband, who actually took it rather well. He's just glad that he wasn't the one to do it.
The next day, I took it to the auto body shop and it is going to cost $330. bucks to fix and at least three days in the shop!!
Stupid, stupid, stupid mistake!!:3: :3: |
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| xyzzy |
quote:
Originally posted by chiquita
I have two, six inch deep scratches in the same place.
Hopefully you meant deep and 6 inches long. If they are 6 inches deep, you've got bigger problems than paint! :2:
Chris |
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| chiquita |
| Thanks, Chris for noticing that mistake!! I edited it so that it now should read correctly. What I was trying to say is that these two scratches are about 6 inches long and they are deep. Right down to the metal--ooh boy!! Everyone that sees them says, "That's not so bad", but jeez, I only had 2,000 miles on it!! It definitely can't stay the way it is--perfect spot for rust to start!! |
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| kruzo |
Chiquita,
You might be able to save yourself at least half of what
the shop quoted you: There is mobil service in Boston area
(and elsewhere probably), called Blendtech. All they do is
fixing scratches. They got touch up/color matching technique
down to a science. They come to your place with a truck
and do all the work on the spot. I've used them ones on
my previous car, and the touch up was UNDETECTABLE.
Cost me $150 (I think this is the minimum they will charge
for any job to make it worht a trip for them) |
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| pjb3 |
quote:
Originally posted by xyzzy
Depending on how much higher the paint is than the surrounding area (after drying) you may want to take very fine sandpaper, fold it in half, and use the edge to lightly get it close to the same level as the surrounding surface. From there I would use a swirl mark remover (3M SMR or similar) or even something a little more abrasive such as 3M's Perfect It II (followed by a scratch remover or the SMR). If it's just clear coat it should hide fairly well.
Chris
I know what type of sandpaper you mean but for those that have not done body or paint work this should be "wet and dry" sandpaper (600 or higher), not the stuff you would use on wood. |
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| 4603pba |
| It must have something to do with Pilots. 2 weeks after I took delivery of my Pilot, I took it in to have the windows tinted. When they wer finished I heard a loud crash. They were backing it out and the cable broke on their door and it came down on the back. They fixed it of course to the tune of $800 but I was very upset for several days. |
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| chiquita |
| Thanks, kruzo, I will look into that!! It sounds as if it is definitely a worthwhile alternative. :) |
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| sagepilot |
Kruzo:
Great info.
Thanks.
Anyone found sagebrush touchup yet?
Last I checked with several dealers - not yet available. |
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