| shak |
Pilot 2003 58,000 miles
Front Blower quit today.
Removed blower unit... bench tested with 12 volt battery...blower fine.
Inside of blower housing was clean,
Cabin filter was/is clean.
Bench tested relay in under hood fuse box with 12 volt battery across small blades on relay and multimeter across large blades...Relay fine...good strong click. 30amp fuse under hood OK...7.5 amp fuse under dash driver's side fine, both tested with multimeter.
The plug/connector to the blower unit is only putting out about 6 volts with auto climate control in manual mode and with blower unit fan control set to high.
I suspect the front blower transistor/resistor unit. I think the part number is:
79330-SV3-A01...is this correct
1. Is anyone else having this problem and what was the solution?
2. I have an $800 Honda Care extended warranty...is this covered?
3. Does anyone know if this part can be repaired...I can solder!
Thanks Kevin
Oh...by the way the rear fan transistor was shot when we bought the Pilot with 40,000 on it in 2005. nothing new there apparently.
Update 5/9/07 by shak
Took it to the dealer yesterday...both front and rear transisitors will be replaced under honda care extended warranty...no charge for parts or labor and no charge for normal 75 dollar diagnostic fee. They are also replacing OPDS sensor and extending the warranty on it. |
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| N_Jay |
quote:
Originally posted by shak
I suspect the front blower transistor/resistor unit. I think the part number is:
79330-SV3-A01...is this correct
1. Is anyone else having this problem and what was the solution?
2. I have an $800 Honda Care extended warranty...is this covered?
3. Does anyone know if this part can be repaired...I can solder!
Thanks Kevin
Oh...by the way the rear fan transistor was shot when we bought the Pilot with 40,000 on it in 2005. nothing new there apparently.
I had the same issue last year with my 2003.
I had Honda replace the unit for way too much.
It seems that what fails is not the transistor, but really just the thermal safety fuse inside the transistor module. |
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| shak |
quote:
Originally posted by N_Jay
I had the same issue last year with my 2003.
I had Honda replace the unit for way too much.
It seems that what fails is not the transistor, but really just the thermal safety fuse inside the transistor module.
Thanks N_Jay
Does anyone know which component on the board is the thermal fuse? |
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| N_Jay |
quote:
Originally posted by shak
Thanks N_Jay
Does anyone know which component on the board is the thermal fuse?
Its the one hanging off the top of the board and clipped or screwed to the heat sink.
Check it and verify it is open.
Contact qu37zal |
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| dandbtucker |
Don't know all the technical info about the problem, but did have the same thing happen in our 2003 Pilot. It was replaced under our extended service contact for free. It would have cost over $300.00 according to the repair bill.
Don :29: |
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| tim.s |
quote:
Originally posted by dandbtucker
...It would have cost over $300.00 according to the repair bill...
For future reference (when you are out of waranty), you can replace the part yourself in about 2 minutes time (no tools needed) and the part is about $65 on line. |
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| shak |
Thanks to all of you for your help and expertise...it has saved me hours of time, and money too.
I've read all the posts on the rear blower problem, but didn't see much about the front blower...apparently it is not as susceptible to overheating as the rear. I'm going to take it to the dealer and see what they have to say about the extended warranty for these blower problems...will post the results here.
I still don't quite understand why these thermal fuses blow so readily. The rear blower transistor is a little easier to understand because of all the carpet lint and dirt that accumulates on the metal blower screen behind the driver's console kick panel...mine was 50% blocked.
The other interesting thing about the rear transistor/resistor unit is that the white thermal transfer paste between the heat sink and the transistor board was just "globbed" on with excess paste smeared everywhere. It appears there was no attempt to get a smooth even coat on the heat sink. Anyone who has overclocked CPU's in a computer knows the critical importance of properly applying thermal transfer paste, and also ensuring that there is adequate fresh air around the heat sink. Makes me wonder if these blower transistor board heat sinks should be larger and/or perhaps need a small dedicated cooling fan of there own to keep the thermal fuse from blowing.
Thanks again to all of you.
Kevin |
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| N_Jay |
quote:
Originally posted by shak
Thanks to all of you for your help and expertise...it has saved me hours of time, and money too.
I've read all the posts on the rear blower problem, but didn't see much about the front blower...apparently it is not as susceptible to overheating as the rear. I'm going to take it to the dealer and see what they have to say about the extended warranty for these blower problems...will post the results here.
I still don't quite understand why these thermal fuses blow so readily. The rear blower transistor is a little easier to understand because of all the carpet lint and dirt that accumulates on the metal blower screen behind the driver's console kick panel...mine was 50% blocked.
The other interesting thing about the rear transistor/resistor unit is that the white thermal transfer paste between the heat sink and the transistor board was just "globbed" on with excess paste smeared everywhere. It appears there was no attempt to get a smooth even coat on the heat sink. Anyone who has overclocked CPU's in a computer knows the critical importance of properly applying thermal transfer paste, and also ensuring that there is adequate fresh air around the heat sink. Makes me wonder if these blower transistor board heat sinks should be larger and/or perhaps need a small dedicated cooling fan of there own to keep the thermal fuse from blowing.
Thanks again to all of you.
Kevin
They are in the fan cavity, so I doubt airflow is an issue.
The transistor is bolted to the heatsink, so unlike a CPU there is considerable contact force.
The extra heat sink paste is a mess but won't hurt anything.
I am guessing either the thermal fuses are bad, or underrated, or they are blowing due to self heating (through current) and not heat sink temp. |
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| cindybert |
| Does anyone have a picture they can post of the front blower transistor that shows the location of the thermal safety fuse? Has anyone repaired their front blower transistor by soldering a resistor across the terminals like some of the posts say about the rear blower transistor? It's hot in Texas, but I really don't want to pay the dealer $92 for the part if I can repair it!! Help?!?!?! |
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| graveltravel |
| please post pics on where this thing isss!!!! |
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| N_Jay |
pic 1
It is the black rectangular part under the clip with the blue leads. |
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| graveltravel |
| thanks njay, but where is it under the dash??? |
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| N_Jay |
Look under the passenger side dash.
It is obvious once you stick your head where your feet normally reside. |
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| graveltravel |
thanks again man!!!
and i believe the rear is under the drivers side console. right? |
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| N_Jay |
quote:
Originally posted by graveltravel
thanks again man!!!
and i believe the rear is under the drivers side console. right?
I think it is in the center console. |
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| sfhondapilot |
quote:
Originally posted by N_Jay
I think it is in the center console.
Driver's side of the center console, about midway down the length of the console, IIRC? |
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| graveltravel |
| isnt there a screen to clean out also in there???? |
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| tim.s |
quote:
Originally posted by graveltravel
isnt there a screen to clean out also in there????
The location for the transistor and the screen on in the TSB located here. |
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| btrobridge |
This sounds like the problem I have. A/C was working fine on my 2004 on Monday -just hit 50k. Last night went out and could not get any air from the front diffusers but the rear was working fine. Fuses all OK.
So I tried to poke my head in on the passenger side floor and could not find the illusive resistor board. Should I be looking straight up? To left or right side? Appreciate the help. |
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| Jim_NH |
Mine was also inoperative. I ordered the replacement transistor for $24 with shipping from a local electronics store. I soldered it in and replaced the unit.
Now, the light on the dash works (it used to never work) when you press the button, but there is no air flow on either AC (uppers) or heat (lowers).
Could my fan actually be stuck?
Any feedback appreciated.
JIM in NH
alan.mail@verizon.net |
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| N_Jay |
quote:
Originally posted by Jim_NH
Mine was also inoperative. I ordered the replacement transistor for $24 with shipping from a local electronics store. I soldered it in and replaced the unit.
Now, the light on the dash works (it used to never work) when you press the button, but there is no air flow on either AC (uppers) or heat (lowers).
Could my fan actually be stuck?
Any feedback appreciated.
JIM in NH
alan.mail@verizon.net
It is typically NOT the transistor in the module that goes bad, but the thermal fuse.
It was discussed in one of the threads. |
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| btrobridge |
Do you think it would be possible to replace the thermal fuse? I tried to get a close look and it is a 2amp 114 deg C. Is something like that pretty specialized or could one pick it up at Radio Shack or something?
I was planning to order a replacement for the whole unit resistor assembly tomorrow. But if I can fix it...
Thanks, Bruce |
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| N_Jay |
quote:
Originally posted by btrobridge
Do you think it would be possible to replace the thermal fuse? I tried to get a close look and it is a 2amp 114 deg C. Is something like that pretty specialized or could one pick it up at Radio Shack or something?
I was planning to order a replacement for the whole unit resistor assembly tomorrow. But if I can fix it...
Thanks, Bruce
Someone bought a bunch and resold some a while back.
They are not a radio-shack type of item so you usually need to buy a minimum from an industrial electronics supplier like Newark Electronics or Digikey.
Also soldering a thermal fuse can be tried so you don't blow it while putting it in (since it is both thermal and current sensitive. |
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