Empty out your glove box and locate the clips on the inside left and right side of the glove box (GB).
Tools
8mm socket 1/4 drive
Rachet 1/4 drive
Phillips Screwdriver
Small hacksaw
(DISCLAIMER): Please keep in mind that these procedures are what worked for me and my situation. I merely wanted to create a shorter, easier version of this DIY job. Your situation may be different so I cannot take responsibility for your results.

This is the right side clip. Push the two pieces together with your right hand and with your left hand inside the GB, pull the clip into the GB.

These are the two clips removed from the left and right side of the GB. The GB is now free to swing all the way down.

The grey plastic mold needs to be removed. The dealerships cuts this off too, so don't be alarmed or afraid to cut this off. It has to be removed in order to get the Cabin Air Filter out. Cut on the right side and left side.

This is the right side cut. Do this to both sides.

Remove the plastic mold. Now you have to remove the left side of the GB mounting screw. There is only one phillips head bolt. Lift the GB up so you can get the phillips screwdriver under the GB.

I lifted the GB up in order to unscrew the bolt. This step can also be done prior to cutting the plastic mold off.

Where the red arrow is, that is where the phillips head bold was that allowed me to lower the GB and let it dangle from the left side. Unscrew the other phillips bolt holding the metal brace in place.

Get the 8mm socket and the 1/4 drive rachet and loosen and remove the top bolt.

Once you have removed the phillips head bolt and the 8mm bolt from the left side, do the same to the right side allowing you to move the metal brace down on the left side.

Once you have lowered the metal brace, unclip the top of the Air Box Door and then unclip the bottom. This will allow you to remove the door.

Cabin Air Filter door removed.

Remove the Air Filter revealing more debris inside the box. Vacuum the inside of the box out prior to putting in another Air Filter. Mine had alot of small leaves. I blew it out first then I vacuumed it.

This is the New and the Old Cabin Air Filter out of my 2005 Pilot EX with 24,000 miles. This procedure will be done once a year from here on out.

Insert the new Cabin Air Filter. Pay attention to the way the AIR FLOWS. This is a Bosch Air Filter that shows the air flow direction and the air box also shows the air flow direction. This Bosch filter cost $19.99 from Schucks. (No tax (Alaska Residents), Military Discount). It is a nice filter.

Now install the Air Box Door, then put the metal brace back in place and install its hardware, then reinstall the GB lower left phillips screwdriver (underneath the left side of the GB), reinstall the two clips, and finally put all the junk back in the GB and your family will be ready to ride in the Pilot with clean air flowing inside.

These are the procedure I took so I didn't have to remove the right side kick board and the lower door trim. It took about 20 minutes in all and the next time will be even faster but I will always take my time lowering the GB with the left GB retaining bolt removed.

This is an easy task anyone can do. Have fun and take your time.

Very, very nice pictorial and description of this easy maintanence item!

Welcome to HPorg, you've got 22 posts under your belt so far, we will all benefit from future write ups from you!

quote:

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Originally posted by jestmaty
Very, very nice pictorial and description of this easy maintanence item!

Welcome to HPorg, you've got 22 posts under your belt so far, we will all benefit from future write ups from you!

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Thanks for the welcome JESTMATY. I want to help others here in the Forum as much as it has helped me. Anything and everything I do on my pilot that may assist someone else will be documented and added to this forum.

Once again, thanks for the compliment and the welcome.

:6: Awsome job., thanks.

This deserves a sticky

quote:

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Originally posted by rocky
This deserves a sticky

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Thanks Rocky and others for the compliments. I just like to share what I think is a decent finished product for the DIYers. I just want to give back in a way since I take alot of information from the site.

Followed these instructions and replaced my cabin air filter in less than 30 minutes time. The dealership wanted to charge me $120 parts and labor....HA!

Thanks much!

787_Pilot

The above attached picture appeared to show the filter clogged and filthy. Not necessarily so. The original filter installed at the factory came impregnated with activated carbon. Out of the box, it took on a grey cast, exactly as shown in the picture. As a test, flip the filter over and notice the 'clean' side looks essentially the same.

The original filter was designed for double duty - remove dust and particulates, and remove airborne aerosol contaminants. Replacement filters (even from the dealer) do not contain this activated carbon treatment, and come out of the box pure white. Recently Fram and Bosch have announced plans to treat their cabin filters with activated carbon. I'll bet those filters will take on a grey cast in the process.

BTW-
The old style Fram cabin filter is part #CF8813, and the carbon impregnated one is part #CF8813A.

Still haven't figured out why Honda does not supply the dealers with the exact filter they install on the assembly line. Isn't that why you go back to the dealer, instead of the aftermarket?

quote:

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Originally posted by A6Pilot
...
Still haven't figured out why Honda does not supply the dealers with the exact filter they install on the assembly line. Isn't that why you go back to the dealer, instead of the aftermarket?

---

Toyota does the same thing, and I could not find an aftermarket filter of any kind for my '07 Camry Hybrid, instead of the cheesy Toyota replacement filter. I bet I go through the same thing next December, when I'm ready to swap out the original filter in my '08 Highlander Hybrid.:(

quote:

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Originally posted by A6Pilot
The above attached picture appeared to show the filter clogged and filthy. Not necessarily so. The original filter installed at the factory came impregnated with activated carbon. Out of the box, it took on a grey cast, exactly as shown in the picture. As a test, flip the filter over and notice the 'clean' side looks essentially the same.

The original filter was designed for double duty - remove dust and particulates, and remove airborne aerosol contaminants. Replacement filters (even from the dealer) do not contain this activated carbon treatment, and come out of the box pure white. Recently Fram and Bosch have announced plans to treat their cabin filters with activated carbon. I'll bet those filters will take on a grey cast in the process.

---

Good Information on the filter. I jus thought it was ash from all the fires in Alaska. There was also some dust, leaves, hair, and some feathers..........not sure how feathers got in there.

Needless to say it was dirty and ready to be replaced.

Good afternoon. My username is tim.s, I'm a long time owner...first time pollen filter changer. :rolleyes:

This really is a pretty simple job. The first time is more difficult, because you have to remove the plastic crossbar. But even that only took a couple minutes.

Nice job on the photo-instructions Armystrong, I refered to these before I started and there were no surprises. I give this thread :29::29:

The only thing I did different was that I used a pair of side cutters to cut out the plastic crossbar. Once I saw the size of the pre-perforations in the plastic, I realized I could use the side cutters and avoid having plastic bits scattered from the saw.

My old filter was pretty much dirty grey like everyone else. And I got the new filter shipped in from Hondacuraworld.

I examined the HVAC while I was in there and snapped some photos of the main fan, recirc baffle, etc... for future reference.

Glad some of the instructions could help. The cutters are a darn good idea, something I thought of but the only thing I had infront of me was the little saw.

My intent was to help others and I am glad the post has helped you and others. Today I put in the USA SPEC PA11-HON for my wifes Ipod. I didn't do a DIY but I will say the USA SPEC Ipod adapter kit ROCKS! The best $100 dollars I have spent on the Pilot.

Sorry for the off topic.

Take Care

Excellent post! I will be sure to use this method the next time I replace the cabin air filter.

I saw the other DIY on this filter and it looked like it a lot more stuff being removed.

This was easy.

Don't forget your flashlight.

quote:

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Originally posted by e2thek
I saw the other DIY on this filter and it looked like it a lot more stuff being removed.

This was easy.

Don't forget your flashlight.

---

TOO FUNNY.

I just removed it and vacuumed and rinsed it off. Let it dry and put it back in for no cost just like I did with my Highlander. The filter in the Honda is not much different than what you find in a bagless vacuum that they tell you to shake the crap out and rinse with water if it gets to dirty. This filter thing is a load of crap so the dealer can rip you off for something that does little but keep leaves and dust off the coil. Gee, they probably say, look how dirty it is when they show it to you after removing it. Then the owner says, wow, I could have choked to death on all that dirt. Im sure glad you charged me $100.00 plus to remove that disgusting thing. Problem is they don't mention the fact that the filter is carbon activated and is dark normally and is probably made for less than 5 bucks. Pollen, I say bull. Like you never drive with your windows down. This thing is pure profit playing on some issue they say it solves for a condition no one ever cared or asked for in the past. The American public is being shafted again in the name of making big profits off of peoples lack of sense. Seems funny that someone would not ask why a front brake job is cheaper than replacing this filter. Shame on HONDA for not figuring out a better location to service this thing. Only one answer, GREED.

quote:

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Originally posted by tim.s
Good afternoon. My username is tim.s, I'm a long time owner...first time pollen filter changer. :rolleyes:

SNIP.

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Oh the shame of it all. I am very surprised by you tim.s
:22: :22:


Great write up and pictures Armystrong.

Thanks

Thank You Sunday Rider. Have a good day.
JIM

Just replace the cabin filter today. Thanks for the great instruction.Again save $$.

quote:

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Originally posted by kean
Just replace the cabin filter today. Thanks for the great instruction.Again save $$.

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Thats great. Better for you to do it and gain the experience then have the dealer charge you for the work. Glad the instructions could save you some money, good job!

Yes it would be a big save doing it myself. I would like to DIY oil change, ATF, etc. but still parking the pilot on the road side.

Wow..!! Thanks to ArmyStrong. and his pictures. i did my cabin air filter change , with no problem in about. 1 hour and that is because i had to go and buy the filter first of course.
And guess what i called my dealer just to see what they would say. and the service guy said. Oh you pay $120.00 for labor + filter.

And then he said but that filter replacement is included in the 30k service..
And my pilot only has 4k+. But when i took the filter out i was glad i did, that filter was duty like Stivo's mouth. in the comercial of Orbit.:D

Sorry i have no pic's, but i couln't find my stick pro duo. :D

Charly
Glad the thread helped. Great Job and keep doing those DIY jobs.

I replaced the cabin air filter this afternoon following Armystrong's tutorial and it was a breeze. Done in about 15 minutes. New Bosch filter was $30 at AutoZone. I know I could find it for less, but the AZ is less than a mile away from home. I'll pay a couple bux for convenience.

Thanks again Armystrong. Your efforts on these DIYs are appreciated.

Cheers!
:7:
John

John,
Its no problem and your welcome. Next weekend I will be doing the 30,000 mile service on my 05. So stay tuned for some more DIY from the service I will be doing. Glad this thread and the one on ATF Drain and fill helped. Sounds like your mechanically inclined so these were probably a breeze for you.

I have gotten plenty of tips on other jobs from here so its my way of contributing good info.

Take Care
JIM:7:

To ArmyStrong, Inspector1, and all who are changing the filter:
First, great instructions on changing the filter...saved $ & much time. However, after examination, I believe that the plastic bar we cut and removed was in place to protect the front of your shins in the case of a severe frontal impact. After completion of filter replacement, I stuck my hand on the bottom of the glove box and could feel the edge of the bar. I have seen what your legs will do to the lower part of a dashboard in a frontal impact on a friends car....big "dents" in the shape of your legs! I plan on countersinking a couple of self-tapping metal screws high on the front of the plastic bar that screw in to the metal bar, to hold plastic bar in roughly the same position. With Phillip's head screws, it should be a snap to remove and replace.
Thanks again, efine.

quote:

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Originally posted by efine
...I believe that the plastic bar we cut and removed was in place to protect the front of your shins in the case of a severe frontal impact...

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I doubt Honda would devise a maintenance procedure that reduces the safety of the car. Removing that piece of plastic isn't a "shade tree" fix - it's the official way to replace the filter as specified by Honda in the shop manual.

- Mark

quote:

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Originally posted by whizmo


I doubt Honda would devise a maintenance procedure that reduces the safety of the car. Removing that piece of plastic isn't a "shade tree" fix - it's the official way to replace the filter as specified by Honda in the shop manual.

- Mark

---

Mark,

I am just using common sense and the physical evidence I have witnessed of a post-crash car....the lower half of your legs are not secured by anything, and these legs literally made "u's" in the dashboard where they hit. (Take a trip to your local junkyard and look at some severe frontal crashs) The dashboard was sheet metal covered by a padded vinyl cover and it still turned his legs black and blue. If there had been any sharp edges there, he would have been severely lacerated.
Honda crash tested the vehicle with the plastic bar in place...why is the plastic bar there in the first place, as the metal bar structurally ties in the dash fascia with its underlying structure? I believe it was to protect the crash dummy's lower legs in the test, & ours if the bar is still in place! Just put your hand under the bottom lip of the GB, and you can follow the action of the contact your legs would have with that bar.
Regards,
efine

Why did they make a part you have to cut off?

quote:

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Originally posted by panamamike
Why did they make a part you have to cut off?

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Aside from my thoughts on needing it to keep the numbers high on the initial crash test, why did they put the airfilter in that position in the first place, knowing you would have to change it on a semi-regular basis? Why is the oilfilter not located in an easy to reach location on many cars? Why are there Phillip's head screws and 8mm bolts on the same item, and not just one or the other? Why do I have to remove the air intake and plenum to get to the back side spark plugs on my Hyundai? Why did the auto industry fight the introduction of airbags and the catalytic converter?
HUMAN ERROR/STUPIDITY/GREED, ENGINEERS, & BEANCOUNTERS! :-)
efine

quote:

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Originally posted by efine
I believe that the plastic bar we cut and removed was in place to protect the front of your shins in the case of a severe frontal impact.

---

Actually, the plastic bar that is removed to get to the cabin air filter is not there for any kind of crash protection. It is molded into the dash structure in order to facilitate dash installation and alignment at the factory. The dash is first installed as a single unit. The plastic bar prevents the bottom of the dash to spread as the assembly is bolted in. As the final step, the metal bar is bolted into the structure of the vehicle.

The metal bar, in fact, constitutes the safety structure and the dash integrity mechanism, not the plastic bar. Once the metal bar is bolted to the structure of the vehicle, the plastic bar has no further function, safety or otherwise. It’s only there as a convenience to the assembly line workers. Ever wonder why things are so well lined up? It’s one of Honda’s many little secrets.

Take a look at the metal structure under the dash, on the driver's side. It's even more robust and complex.

quote:

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Originally posted by A6Pilot


Actually, the plastic bar that is removed to get to the cabin air filter is not there for any kind of crash protection. It is molded into the dash structure in order to facilitate dash installation and alignment at the factory. The dash is first installed as a single unit. The plastic bar prevents the bottom of the dash to spread as the assembly is bolted in. As the final step, the metal bar is bolted into the structure of the vehicle.

The metal bar, in fact, constitutes the safety structure and the dash integrity mechanism, not the plastic bar. Once the metal bar is bolted to the structure of the vehicle, the plastic bar has no further function, safety or otherwise. It’s only there as a convenience to the assembly line workers. Ever wonder why things are so well lined up? It’s one of Honda’s many little secrets.

Take a look at the metal structure under the dash, on the driver's side. It's even more robust and complex.

---

Actually, the plastic bar that is removed to get to the cabin air filter is not there for any kind of crash protection.

I can not challenge with any veracity, what you said regarding the dash installation because I don't have any knowledge of the installation procedure. However, if the metal bar is already screwed to the dash, before they set the dash in and screw the last 8 mm bolts to the underlying vehicle structure, why would they need the plastic bar at all, as the metal bar is already keeping the continuity of the dash in place?
Be that as it may, if you put your hand down where the shin bones of your legs would impact the bottom of the GB, mine came into direct contact with the edge of the metal bar only after I removed the plastic bar. I did not feel the metal bar at all before removal of the plastic one. Ergo, I will still screw mine back into place for protection, although I have no guarantee or proof that it will work.
You, of course, may do as you like! :-)
Regards,
efine

Thanks for the easier DIY instructions ArmyStrong. This was my first cabin filter replacement on our second Pilot; much easier this time around compared to the last. :4: HOOAH!

1/2 hour well spent, thanks for the Pics

quote:

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Originally posted by joel
1/2 hour well spent, thanks for the Pics

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Very glad the pictures helped. The time I spent doing the post, is worth it when I get positive feedback from many Pilot Org members.
Thank You
Take Care

Awesome instructions. Took me less than 30 minutes. Thanks.

WOW 20 min start to finish. Next time 15 or less don't have to remove the plastic bar. I would like to go to work for Honda just replacing the filters. Man could make a good living working a couple days a week!!
Mike

quote:

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Originally posted by mikesrc
WOW 20 min start to finish. Next time 15 or less don't have to remove the plastic bar. I would like to go to work for Honda just replacing the filters. Man could make a good living working a couple days a week!!
Mike

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Mike
If you got several non-org members that are not willing to do this task, you are absolutely right, you could make a killing changing filters. I wouldn't mind working for Honda a couple hours on the weekend, but I like to tinker and do stuff to my own vehicles and pass on the experiences to others. That way we don't have to visit the dealers that make a killing from tasks like this one.

Glad this thread helped. Take Care..........JIM

Thanks for your excellent "How to." It really makes a difference when pictures and normal language are used. You'd make a good technical writer.
I did the job and your instructions made all the difference.

quote:

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Originally posted by xinix
Thanks for your excellent "How to." It really makes a difference when pictures and normal language are used. You'd make a good technical writer.
I did the job and your instructions made all the difference.

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I try to make it as simple as possible. I think next time I will include the verbage from the Operators Manual that way you can read what Honda wants you to do, including Torques, and then what my maintenance procedures are.
Take Care
Jim

thanks for this great faq... just changed our filter on our new (used from a smoker) 2008 pilot with 15k miles... filter was disgusting / black on both sides,...

quote:

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Originally posted by fish_antlers
thanks for this great faq... just changed our filter on our new (used from a smoker) 2008 pilot with 15k miles... filter was disgusting / black on both sides,...

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The filters installed at the factory are black because they have charcoal in them.

quote:

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Originally posted by youbetcha


The filters installed at the factory are black because they have charcoal in them.

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I wonder if the activated carbon (charcoal) in only the initial "from the factory" filter is associated with off-gassing of the new plastics and foams as they cure (e.g. formaldehyde and the other chemicals that comprise the "new car smell"). Just a hypothesis, and I have no idea how one would attempt to verify it.

I just changed my cabin filter with a Fram CF8813A FreshBreeze I bought from Amazon.com for less than $24. Big Thanks to Armystrong. Your wonderful step by step instructions made it so easy.

Big thanks for the write-up!!! My 2004 had never had its cabin filter replaced and boy was it disgusting. Now I'll do it every year.

thanks a lot op, got mine changed today 15 minutes tops :)

For a charge of $112 at the dealer as a part of my 60K mile service, they'll change it out for me - although it was supposed to have been done at other times previous - it's obviously never been touched (as evidenced by the pristine, intact gray plastic piece). I did it myself in under 20 minutes with almost no trouble at all. My husband didn't want me to do it because he was concerned about me cutting up part of the car, but how else to get the thing out, either by me or the dealer?? The filter was warped and dirty with lots of damp leaves in there. I used a can of compressed air (like for my computer) to blow everything out. Thanks OP for saving me big bucks!

Thanks.

I used my heavy duty tree branch trimmer to take the plastic off. I used your transmission DIY too.

Thanks for the help. I got all the way to the plastic crossbar. Honda says to remove the entire lower dash assembly, so I looked up this in the hondapilot.org. You're a life saver.

I just wanted to add my thanks to Armystrong for the easier how-to. I did this on my 2007 Pilot and worked out just fine. For those who might be worried about cutting the plastic - I did this with a utility knife without any issues. I did have a heck of a time getting to the gunk built up in the back but decided that as long as the filter's blocking the stuff, the effort was not worth trying to get it out. I used a vacuum thingy but that couldn't really reach. How did everyone else deal with this? Thanks again!

quote:

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Originally posted by azskip
Thanks for the help. I got all the way to the plastic crossbar. Honda says to remove the entire lower dash assembly, so I looked up this in the hondapilot.org. You're a life saver.

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To reach the back, I used a "low tech" solution. I took those wooden stir sticks you get when you buy paint, attached an old tooth brush to it with duct tape. I then used it to bring the stuff forward enough for vacuum cleaner to pick it up. It helps if you have that narrow attachment for the vacuum cleaner.

quote:

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Originally posted by howdySA
I just wanted to add my thanks to Armystrong for the easier how-to. I did this on my 2007 Pilot and worked out just fine. For those who might be worried about cutting the plastic - I did this with a utility knife without any issues. I did have a heck of a time getting to the gunk built up in the back but decided that as long as the filter's blocking the stuff, the effort was not worth trying to get it out. I used a vacuum thingy but that couldn't really reach. How did everyone else deal with this? Thanks again!

---

You are very welcome and I am glad the DIY helped you accomplish the task. I used a long vacuum tip that fit in the gap. Glad the DIY provided enough missions to help you.

Take Care
Jim

I just wanted to thank you for the instructions, my husband and I were a little weary of cutting the plastic rod like you indicated, but we did it anyway. The next day we went to our friend's house who drives a Honda Pilot as well and he does all the services at the dealership and we checked to see if the dealership had cut that plastic bar also. Guess what...the dealership had cut the plastic bar too. So your instructions are based on Honda's guidelines, Thank you soooo much!!! We saved $145!!!