| dude68man |
| I'm looking to install a trailer hitch this summer and was wondering about the wiring harness. Do you have to connect it right to the battery or is there already something that you just plug into. It's for a 2006 EXL. and is there a different harness for different year. Thanks guys |
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| jestmaty |
Here's a start with your project. It may or may not look scary to you, but it really is easy if you follow directions and take your time.
You should consider buying the oem wiring stuff from either the above site sponsor or the one that I linked you to.
Good luck!! http://www.handaaccessories.com/pilot/06hitch.pdf |
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| San_Carlos_Jeff |
There's a plug in the back that the harness attaches too and then the wiring gets routed through a rubber grommet to the outside. I wired up my 2006 a couple months back, it's pretty straightforward.
Be aware that the factory harness doesn't have power there to charge up a battery on a trailer, or to power any electric brakes. If you need to do that you'll need to route stuff on your own...
Good luck.
Jeff |
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| vnoah |
| Very easy to install a wiring harness. I bought an aftermarket one on e-bay and installed it in about an hour. It could have been faster but I played around for a while before I permenantly mounted it and laced it through the plug and on to the new hitch. |
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| ericsgr |
quote:
Originally posted by vnoah
Very easy to install a wiring harness. I bought an aftermarket one on e-bay and installed it in about an hour. It could have been faster but I played around for a while before I permenantly mounted it and laced it through the plug and on to the new hitch.
Vnoah, what did you do about the rubber grommets? My understanding is that the aftermarket one does not come with them. |
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| jarizzo |
As has already been mentioned, installing the trailer wiring adapter is a simple job. Even if you get an aftermarket one, there is at least one grommet already under the rear compartment that works well for running the wires. I cut out the center of the grommet and ran the wire loom through it, then sealed around the loom so it is water tight.
Also as mentioned already, the wiring adapters will give you a 4-wire trailer connector, good for brake lights, turn signals, and parking lights. If you have a camper or something with a battery or electric brakes, you will need to run wiring from the battery and brake controller back to your 5-, 6-, or 7-way connector. User dustino put together a really nice DIY thread showing how he did it and I did mine very similarly to his and it works great. I needed power and brake controller wiring for a camper with a 7-way connector. Bought most of the parts from www.etrailer.com.
Have you installed the transmission and power steering coolers, or will you be doing that? The P/S cooler I bought from Honda but I used a bigger aftermarket trans cooler for less money. Also bought an aftermarket tubular hitch and wiring adapter that cost a lot less than the Honda ones and do the same thing.
There are lots of good towing threads available if you search or use the sticky threads at the top of the Accessories forum. Let us know what questions or concerns you have. Good luck and happy towing!
Cheers!
:7:
John |
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| dustino8 |
| Thanks for the plug jarizzo! ;) |
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| ericsgr |
Jarizzo,
Thanks for the info. Yep, I installed the coolers last summer. Just need to get the hitch and the harness.................oh, and then eventually, something to tow :2:
There have been two instances already that I was sad I didnt have the hitch on already though. |
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| Paul.V |
Jestmaty, or anyone that knows for sure....
the hitch shown on the install link shows 4 bolts on each side....I keep seeing comments that hidden hitch is same as honda & only has 6 bolts total.??
I am looking for a strong class3 hitch ASAP...does the honda hitch actually have 4 bolts on each side? Do any aftermarket? I am supposed to pick up a drawtite tomorow $180 or so in Canada....Honda hitch is $450 up here!!!yikes! I would bite the bullet though if it means a stronger hitch...or I can modify the one I get by welding angle iron to extend to the 4th hole.
The reason I want the 4th hole is I want to use load leveling hitch and figure this would help support any extra torque.....I know Honda does not recommend load leveling hitch so I will only use light setup..
Thanks for your info!
Paul |
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| jestmaty |
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Paul.V
[B]Jestmaty, or anyone that knows for sure....
the hitch shown on the install link shows 4 bolts on each side....I keep seeing comments that hidden hitch is same as honda & only has 6 bolts total.??
The Honda hitch actually has 12 bolts total... 4 down each side (8) and 4 more right where the receiver is. The final 4 bolt are smaller, though stout. 2 bolts are on a horizontal piece of the frame and 2 are on a vertical part of the frame. |
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| vnoah |
Reply to: Vnoah, what did you do about the rubber grommets? My understanding is that the aftermarket one does not come with them.
__________________
Eric
2005 EXL Nighthawk Black Pearl
I cut the existing plastic plugs so that the ribbon of four wires from the adapter slid through and then used silicone sealant on both sides of the plug before inserting it back in under my Honda. It is holding up well. I was surprized that I did not have a rubber grommet but the grommet was not worth the increased cost for the Honda wiring harness. |
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| Paul.V |
Thanks Jestmaty,
Considering this , I called US Honda....$279.. Called Pickering (cdn)Honda...$435. I asked why since we are basically at par $...The only thing they would say is 'this is the price, they do not match US prices'....There was about a minute of uncomfortable silence before they said , ok we'll give you a 10% discount....so $392.....not great but better than nothing...Irks me though when they know they got you by the short & curleys....If I had time I'd do the drive just to spend a day state side....everything is still cheaper... Maybe when I go to adirondacs in July I'll buy my snows!!?-any referals?
So, $200 more than drawtite but 12 bolts rather than 6 I believe will be more kind to the unibody frame...Thanks again for your help!
Paul |
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| jestmaty |
| The extra 4 bolts.. |
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| Paul.V |
OK, not to kick this to death but I looked at the Drawtite just for the heck of it....I couldnt believe how cheap it was made! 1.5"X3" tube between frames with 3 bolts.....No attachment in the middle!! 6 bolts total....Ok for a bike rack maybe but class3?? Imagine what 350 lbs bouncing would do to that bar!!! yikes! This is what I love about forums like this...everyone benefits ...Thanks for helping me dodge that bullet!!
I'm doing wiring as well tonight...I'll take pics since there are alot of questions regarding difficulty...
Paul
PS my son took the tow hook off the frame, cleaned it, painted it...I dont have the heart to tell him its not going back on!! ?? |
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| Paul.V |
OK, installed aftermarked adaptor last night...just cut & sealed grommets. My question though is the directions for factory install describe installing 20A fuse...aftermarket doesnt mention it....does this power the controller? why 20A then? I wired for brake controller as well..pretty hard getting over the rear wheel well but ok with fish, coat hanger might do...
There isnt a really good place to install the controller is there!, no metal at all.
Thanks,
Paul |
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| jestmaty |
Hey Paul, glad to see you're checking back on this thread every so often..
Look at the small pic of my boat with my wife and 2 boys on it... I would really hate to have a bad accident because my hitch broke or failed on me while towing to the lake. The closest ( but most crowded lake= unsafe ) is about 50 miles from me. The one that we've been going to for the last 3 years is 72 miles each way. Just took 'er out for a spring shakedown 2 days ago. This lake is more family friendly and safer.
I towed the boat 144 miles round-trip and got 12mpg. Not bad, but not great either. My boat weighs about 2400lbs, don't know the kg, but is a little more than half of the max tow rating.
I used this forum about 3 years ago when I was researching hitches and the OEM Honda won hands down. It is attached with 12 bolts, and I really think the load gets more evenly distributed with basically 3 attachment points. |
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| Paul.V |
Hey Jestmaty,
Cant wait to hit the water!!
my boat is 1989, 1950 capri cuddy 350ci...I'd hate to see that get lose too! Hands down the OEM hitch is in a different league from the rest! too many only consider how strong the actual hitch is rather than the support to their unibody frame...this one not only is heavier steel but the design maximizes the load support on the frame...WELL worth the extra couple hundred! In this case aftermarket is absolute POC, & to claim class 3!!! I don think so!
I didnt install the hitch last night though....ran into a Canadian snag...underneath is very clean but bolts have film of rust & couldnt start the bolts. I'm going to pick up a couple taps to chase the threads before I try again...heavey sucker isnt it!
Do you know about the 20A fuse for the wiring kit? does it power the controll module? Theres no explanation or diagram with either OEM instructions or aftermarket kit???
Thanks, |
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| jestmaty |
quote:
Originally posted by Paul.V
Hey Jestmaty,
Cant wait to hit the water!!
my boat is 1989, 1950 capri cuddy 350ci...I'd hate to see that get lose too! Hands down the OEM hitch is in a different league from the rest! too many only consider how strong the actual hitch is rather than the support to their unibody frame...this one not only is heavier steel but the design maximizes the load support on the frame...WELL worth the extra couple hundred! In this case aftermarket is absolute POC, & to claim class 3!!! I don think so!
I didnt install the hitch last night though....ran into a Canadian snag...underneath is very clean but bolts have film of rust & couldnt start the bolts. I'm going to pick up a couple taps to chase the threads before I try again...heavey sucker isnt it!
Do you know about the 20A fuse for the wiring kit? does it power the controll module? Theres no explanation or diagram with either OEM instructions or aftermarket kit???
Thanks,
I'm certainly not an automotive electrical system guru, but if I understand the 20A fuse, it is necessary because the stock wiring can't handle the extra load of trailer lights.
I bought my hitch package just over 3 years ago, and I got an installation manual in pdf format on the internet. Do you have something to show you where the fuse goes? If not, I can take a pic and post it or track down the pdf and get the link to you. It just plugs in under the hood in one of the fuse boxes.
I noticed when I launched this past weekend that I backed so far into the water that the exhaust was bubbling and the little 4 pin harness was uw too. No problems though.... I usually get just deep enough to where the exhaust is just barely touching the water. Only takes me about 1 minute to back in, shove off, and pull away. Always leave the Pilot running when I launch.
Not sure if the 4 pin likes water, but nothing shorted out and everything still works. I just like to coat both the male end and the female plug with diaelectric grease. Probably misspelled it, but you know what I mean. |
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| San_Carlos_Jeff |
quote:
Originally posted by Paul.V
........
Do you know about the 20A fuse for the wiring kit? does it power the controll module? Theres no explanation or diagram with either OEM instructions or aftermarket kit???
Thanks,
I've tried to attach the page that shows the fuse, hopefully this will help you out.
Jeff |
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| Paul.V |
OK thanks Jeff, this is same as pg 10 of the link you gave earlier in the post Jestmaty, just doesnt explain why....I have alldata I will scan for dwg. As best I can figure it powers the control module which controlls the trailer lights....if that is true , trailer lights cant take out your truck lights & you dont need a HD flasher!!............?sounds good to me, I'll post back if I can get a dwg.
Paul
PS NO-one here has tap for the hitch bolts metric 12mm x.125...had to order in 2 days $18.....coming close to our long weekend!!! |
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| Paul.V |
OK, I ordered the fuses from Honda, $5 each, got some spares. I thought I would try the lights first & they work without the fuse!...........? so I've left the fuse out...all work fine no problems ...just my wiring was crossed here & there...I'll post what worked for 7wire application in new thread.
Paul |
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| vnoah |
quote:
Originally posted by ericsgr
Vnoah, what did you do about the rubber grommets? My understanding is that the aftermarket one does not come with them.
I tried to reply to this earlier but it does not look like it posted. I used the plastic grommets that are already installed in the Pilot. I cut a slit half way through then widened the center part for the wire. I did that by cutting a narrow rectangle the width and thickness of the flat wire and fit the wire back into the grommet. I then put silicone sealant on the grommet and wire and inserted it back into the hole. Worked great for me.
Update - I have towed loaded trailers and everything works great. I am happy with my choice of aftermarket hitch, wiring harness, transmission cooler, and power steering coolers. Far less expensive, looks good, and - in the case of the coolers - more effective.
Van |
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| Paul.V |
Vnoah,
I did similar with the grommets but since I was going to 7 wire plug I cut 3/4" hole in outside grommet & pushed a piece of heater core hose through the grommet & other end at the plug, so no exposed wiring. Would work for 7 wire as well if you fed backwards but would have to splice inside.
Regarding hitch, if aftermarket works for your needs great! All I am saying is OEM is much stronger. Its not the hitch I would worry about , its the torque on the frame and the OEM design (12 bolts) does the best job addressing this. I tow 18' 2400lb dry weight trailer. 350 lbs tongue weight so I wanted the best. IMHO well worth the $200 more in the long term.
Maybe yours is better than the Drawtight I saw..? It only had 3 bolts each side- NONE IN THE MIDDLE!!! yikes!!! And that was supposed to be class 3!!hahahahahaha
Paul |
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