| macphanatic |
I finally broke down and bought the Parrot 3200 Bluetooth interface for my Pilot. I also bought a Metra wiring harness adapter to connect the Parrot to the factory radio without splicing any wires.
Here is the Parrot wiring harness: |
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| macphanatic |
| Here is the Metra harness adapter. The connectors will only accept the proper counterpart, so you can't screw it up. |
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| macphanatic |
| The blue connector is removed from the factory unit and the blue connector on the adapter is plugged into the unit. The blue factory wiring harness is plugged into the white connector on the adapter. |
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| macphanatic |
Note: in the previous picture, you can see the aux input adapter for my iPod and Sirius.
Now the tricky part; stuffing all the wiring back in carefully. I ran the connect that goes to the Parrot mute box through an opening and down toward the accelerator.
Here is where I mounted the mute box: |
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| macphanatic |
| The microphone was mounted on the headliner above the rearview mirror. The kit comes with two different mounting clips and one adhesive mount. I used the larger clip. The wiring is tucked up into the headliner. |
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| macphanatic |
| I tucked the wiring into the seam between the headliner and a-pillar cover and ran it down the seam of the a-pillar. |
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| macphanatic |
| Here is the microphone wire along the a-pillar down by the dash. |
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| macphanatic |
| I took the bezel off around the gauges and pulled the left side of the dash off to run the wire across and down to the mute box. To do so, you need to pop the panel on the left side off before pulling the dash face off. Some of the metal clips on the left panel may pop off. Once this panel is off, you need to release the two plastic tabs on the left side before pulling the dash piece off. |
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| macphanatic |
| I then pulled the wire through this area and followed other wiring until I got to the mute box. |
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| macphanatic |
| The microphone can be plugged into either the mute box or the Parrot controller. I plugged it into the mute box. After putting the radio and dash pieces back, I turned the key to power everything up. I then paired my phone to the Parrot. Once this was completed, the Parrot began to synchronize with the contact entries in my phone. |
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| macphanatic |
I haven't mounted the controller yet, as I haven't decided on a permanent location. The nice things about this setup are:
1. Calls automatically cut sound off to the speakers in the dash and doors. The call is played over the door speakers.
2. Great caller id on the screen, very easy to read.
3. Sound quality seems to be pretty good.
The biggest con so far is that the sub doesn't get cut-off during calls. Turning down the head unit volume solves the problem. The Parrot controls call volume.
Based upon what I am hearing from the sub during a call, I wonder if Honda bothered to put a filter on the feed.
Also, I haven't used the system while NAV is active. I have read that the NAV audio overrides the handsfree audio. |
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| fsrenduro |
Along those same lines…I used the same wiring harness to wire my JL Audio Cleansweep. I did all my splicing to and from the harness for speaker outs, 12v constant, 12v trigger, and back to the stock speaker wire after the cleansweep and amp.
It was great because I did the majority of my soldering and heat shrink tubing outside of the truck. It also allows me the option of unhooking everything and plugging back in like it never happened. |
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| adamt12 |
hey macphanatic,
i am interested in this setup,
where did you purchase the parrot and the wire harness from, also what price did you pay?
thanks |
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| macphanatic |
| Bought the Parrot off of ebay, new in box $162 shipped. I got the harness from Crutchfield for $30. |
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