| JSpence |
My 2007 4WD Pilot has about 29K miles, and will likely need an oil change before it hits 30K. What service do I need to look to have done at 30K? So far, we've been changing the oil every 5K, and had the tires rotated at 15K. My dealer offers a big 30K package, for which they charge almost $500, which seems like a huge rip-off to me. I've seen some posts saying that I only need to do things as the MM comes on, but I'm worried b/c I'll be taking the Pilot on a roadtrip about the time it'll hit the 30K mark, and don't want to be far from home if the MM comes on! Any advice would be appreciate - the list of what my dealer includes in their package is pasted below:
30,000 Mile Service (also @ 60K, 90K, 120K)
- Change engine oil(up to 5 quarts)
- Replace engine oil filter
- Replace drain bolt washer and torque
- Inspect all fluid conditions and levels(top off if necessary)
- Rotate tires, balance all four wheels, and adjust tire pressure
- Inspect front and rear brakes
- Inspect pads and discs for wear
- Inspect calipers for damage, leaks, and tightness
- Clean and lube slide rails in calipers
- Inspect wheel cylinders for leaks(if applicable)
- Inspect brake linings for cracking, glazing, wear, or contamination
- Inspect parking brake and adjust if necessary
- Inspect brake hoses and lines(including ABS), check master cylinder, proportioning valve and ABS modulator for damage or leaks
- Flush brake fluid and replace
- Inspect tie rod ends, steering rack & boots
- Inspect steering linkage and rack
- Inspect steering boots for damage or leaking grease
- Inspect steering fluid lines for leaks or damage
- Inspect suspension components
- Inspect suspension bolts for tightness
- Inspect condition of ball joints and boots
- Inspect driveshaft boots for cracks and check bands for tightness or leaks
- Replace engine air cleaner element
- Replace dust and pollen filter
- Inspect and adjust drive belts
- Lubricate all hinges, locks, and latches
- Inspect cooling system hoses and connections
- Inspect cooling system for damage, leaks, or deterioration
- Inspect cooling system for proper fan operation
- Replace transmission fluid
- Inspect battery and charging system
- Inspect exhaust system. Check catalytic converter heat shield, exhaust pipe, and muffler for damage or deterioration
- Inspect fuel lines and connections
- Inspect all lights and position of headlights
- Inspect the vehicle underbody for damage or deterioration
- Perform multipoint inspection
- Road test vehicle |
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| humanoid |
Don't ever get service done according to those dealer service packages/specials, they're made to just rape you of your money. Just follow your maintenance minder and what's specified in your owner's manual and you'll be fine. Use the MM, it why the Honda engineers put there in the first place for.
Your engine won't "break down" once the MM comes on. Just go about your leisurely business and change your oil or whatever after your trip. Going an extra 1000 miles or so past your next oil change won't do any harm. |
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| jarizzo |
quote:
Originally posted by humanoid
Don't ever get service done according to those dealer service packages/specials, they're made to just rape you of your money. Just follow your maintenance minder and what's specified in your owner's manual and you'll be fine. Use the MM, it why the Honda engineers put there in the first place for.
Your engine won't "break down" once the MM comes on. Just go about your leisurely business and change your oil or whatever after your trip. Going an extra 1000 miles or so past your next oil change won't do any harm.
I second that. $500 is a lot of money for what is mostly "inspections" that can be done in a short time and leave plenty of wiggle room for them to insert additional services and charges. That's a lot of money for peace of mind. Buy yourself a drink with top shelf liquor for $10 and forget about it until you get back from vacation. Motor oils these days routinely last for 7500 miles and beyond. The oil formulations and engine design and controls have improved dramatically, greatly reducing the frequency of oil changes. Even 5k mile changes is probably overkill if the MM doesn't say it needs to be done.
For reference, the maintenance minder doesn't look at the quality of your engine oil, it just calculates mileage, load levels, and other factors to make a safe estimate of when you need to change it. There is plenty of safety margin built in there. If you want to find out just how much safety margin there is for engine oil, get a sample kit from one of the oil analysis companies and send in a sample of the used oil when it gets changed. (I like the reports from Dyson but there are plenty of others) They'll send you a detailed report of what's in the oil and how much longer it could safely last. For $30-$60, that's a little peace of mind that could more than pay for itself in the long run.
Just my $0.02.
John
:7: |
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| ED27 |
quote:
Originally posted by JSpence
......I've seen some posts saying that I only need to do things as the MM comes on, but I'm worried b/c I'll be taking the Pilot on a roadtrip about the time it'll hit the 30K mark, and don't want to be far from home if the MM comes on!
You can have your car serviced (if need be) at any Honda dealer or reputable mechanic. How far is your road trip? I would just search for dealers based on where you're going so if you need service, you can find one close by.
Also, IMO, I think 15K is too long of an interval to rotate tires to ensure that you're getting even wear. I use a 7.5K interval which lines up with my oil changes. Based on your oil change practice, at a minimum I would rotate every other oil change or just do it separately every 7.5K miles..
At 30K I had the following service performed:
- Oil Change
- Transmission Fluid Change
- VTM-4 Fluid Change
- Front Brake Service (warped rotors)
- Rotate Tires
- Engine Air Filter Replacement
- In-cabin Air Filter Replacement
- Visual Checks per the OM
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| Pairallel |
quote:
Originally posted by JSpence
30,000 Mile Service (also @ 60K, 90K, 120K)
- Flush brake fluid and replace
- Replace engine air cleaner element
- Replace dust and pollen filter
- Replace transmission fluid
The various inspections, tire rotation and balance, and oil change should run you < $100. Make sure the multi-point inspection includes a brake inspection.
The 4 items above are making up the other $400.
By following the instructions on this site, you can order the air filter and pollen filter and install them yourself in less than an hour. It is easy enough for a dope like me to do, and that will save you $100 - $150 in labor charges.
The fluid changes are a good idea before a long trip, especially if you have not done them previously. You should consider:
-- Trans fluid change
-- VTM-4 fluid change
These could wait longer:
-- Coolant change
-- Brake fluid change
With the air filter change, oil change, trans fluid change and VTM-4 change, I would feel very good about saddling up for a long trip - except for those gas prices....
:rolleyes: |
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| droeun |
quote:
Originally posted by humanoid
Don't ever get service done according to those dealer service packages/specials, they're made to just rape you of your money. Just follow your maintenance minder and what's specified in your owner's manual and you'll be fine. Use the MM, it why the Honda engineers put there in the first place for.
Your engine won't "break down" once the MM comes on. Just go about your leisurely business and change your oil or whatever after your trip. Going an extra 1000 miles or so past your next oil change won't do any harm.
I have an 06' with 34k miles and my MM is showing "A13". I know in the service brochure I got from the dealer they're saying to change the rear diff at 30k, but do I really need it? I drive mostly on the highway & no mountain or off roading. A13 is just an oil change, tire rotation & transmission fluid change.
Manual also says something about a transfer fluid change... what the..? not exactly sure what that is for. Do I need to mention that to the shop I take the truck to or do they do it automatically with the transmission fluid change? |
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| jarizzo |
quote:
Originally posted by droeun
I have an 06' with 34k miles and my MM is showing "A13". I know in the service brochure I got from the dealer they're saying to change the rear diff at 30k, but do I really need it? I drive mostly on the highway & no mountain or off roading. A13 is just an oil change, tire rotation & transmission fluid change.
Manual also says something about a transfer fluid change... what the..? not exactly sure what that is for. Do I need to mention that to the shop I take the truck to or do they do it automatically with the transmission fluid change?
Hi droeun, and welcome to HondaPilot.org! To answer your concerns:
I would have the rear diff. fluid changed. It's called VTM-4 fluid, it's a Honda fluid, and it's important to change it if not for the fluid quality then to clean off the magnet that collects metal shavings. Without cleaning it off, more filings could be sloshed around the differential and cause higher wear and possibly premature failure. The cost of the diff. fluid change may be higher than the transmission fluid change, but if it was me, I would do it, especially if you plan to keep the Pilot into its high mileage years.
The transfer case takes 80W-90 or SAE 90 hypoid gear oil, but just about 1/2 a quart. Others have used synthetic 75W-90 hypoid gear oil with no reported issues that I'm aware of. The transfer case is located just behind the transmission and I would change that one as well, as recommended by the maintenance minder and the manual.
They should know to change the transfer case fluid, but it's worth mentioning. It's such a small amount of fluid and a quick change, so that shouldn't add much to the cost. Apparently 2006 was the first year for a separate transfer case fluid. Prior to that, the transfer case was lubricated by transmission fluid.
The trans fluid change takes somewhere near 3.5 quarts and there is no filter to change, so that shouldn't cost too much.
Hope that helps somewhat! Let us know if you have other questions and please do come back and tell us what you wound up doing and how much it cost.
Thanks and welcome again!
John
:7: |
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| Sportymonk |
First, I would consider waiting on the transmission change and all until I got back. As stated above, dealers love to sell service before or in addition to the regualrly scheduled maintenance. I believe in preventive maintenance but don't let dealers rip you off.
As to the rest:
I would do these :
- Change engine oil(up to 5 quarts)
- Replace engine oil filter
- Replace drain bolt washer and torque
- Rotate tires, balance all four wheels, and adjust tire pressure
Comments on these:
- Flush brake fluid and replace (Isn't this a 3 year item independent of mileage according to the manual?)
- Replace engine air cleaner element (DIY and save)
- Replace dust and pollen filter (DIY and save but it may be easier to let them do it the first time as there isa piece that has to be cut off and removed)
- Replace transmission fluid (I believe this is a 45,000 mile item the first time and 30K after that)
DO you REALLY think they are going to INSPECT beyond looking at tthe bottom of the vehicle while they change the oil and say, "Hhmmm, nothing falling off, check, check, check, check, etc.)
- Inspect all fluid conditions and levels (top off if necessary)
- Inspect front and rear brakes
- Inspect pads and discs for wear
- Inspect calipers for damage, leaks, and tightness
- Clean and lube slide rails in calipers
- Inspect wheel cylinders for leaks(if applicable)
- Inspect brake linings for cracking, glazing, wear, or contamination
- Inspect parking brake and adjust if necessary
- Inspect brake hoses and lines(including ABS), check master cylinder, proportioning valve and ABS modulator for damage or leaks
- Inspect tie rod ends, steering rack & boots
- Inspect steering linkage and rack
- Inspect steering boots for damage or leaking grease
- Inspect steering fluid lines for leaks or damage
- Inspect suspension components
- Inspect suspension bolts for tightness
- Inspect condition of ball joints and boots
- Inspect driveshaft boots for cracks and check bands for tightness or leaks
- Inspect and adjust drive belts
- Lubricate all hinges, locks, and latches
- Inspect cooling system hoses and connections
- Inspect cooling system for damage, leaks, or deterioration
- Inspect cooling system for proper fan operation
- Inspect battery and charging system
- Inspect exhaust system. Check catalytic converter heat shield, exhaust pipe, and muffler for damage or deterioration
- Inspect fuel lines and connections
- Inspect all lights and position of headlights
- Inspect the vehicle underbody for damage or deterioration
- Perform multipoint inspection
- Road test vehicle [/B][/QUOTE] |
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| jarizzo |
quote:
Originally posted by Sportymonk
First, I would consider waiting on the transmission change and all until I got back. As stated above, dealers love to sell service before or in addition to the regualrly scheduled maintenance. I believe in preventive maintenance but don't let dealers rip you off.
As to the rest:
I would do these :
- Change engine oil(up to 5 quarts)
- Replace engine oil filter
- Replace drain bolt washer and torque
- Rotate tires, balance all four wheels, and adjust tire pressure
Comments on these:
- Flush brake fluid and replace (Isn't this a 3 year item independent of mileage according to the manual?)
- Replace engine air cleaner element (DIY and save)
- Replace dust and pollen filter (DIY and save but it may be easier to let them do it the first time as there isa piece that has to be cut off and removed)
- Replace transmission fluid (I believe this is a 45,000 mile item the first time and 30K after that)
DO you REALLY think they are going to INSPECT beyond looking at tthe bottom of the vehicle while they change the oil and say, "Hhmmm, nothing falling off, check, check, check, check, etc.)
- Inspect all fluid conditions and levels (top off if necessary)
- Inspect front and rear brakes
- Inspect pads and discs for wear
- Inspect calipers for damage, leaks, and tightness
- Clean and lube slide rails in calipers
- Inspect wheel cylinders for leaks(if applicable)
- Inspect brake linings for cracking, glazing, wear, or contamination
- Inspect parking brake and adjust if necessary
- Inspect brake hoses and lines(including ABS), check master cylinder, proportioning valve and ABS modulator for damage or leaks
- Inspect tie rod ends, steering rack & boots
- Inspect steering linkage and rack
- Inspect steering boots for damage or leaking grease
- Inspect steering fluid lines for leaks or damage
- Inspect suspension components
- Inspect suspension bolts for tightness
- Inspect condition of ball joints and boots
- Inspect driveshaft boots for cracks and check bands for tightness or leaks
- Inspect and adjust drive belts
- Lubricate all hinges, locks, and latches
- Inspect cooling system hoses and connections
- Inspect cooling system for damage, leaks, or deterioration
- Inspect cooling system for proper fan operation
- Inspect battery and charging system
- Inspect exhaust system. Check catalytic converter heat shield, exhaust pipe, and muffler for damage or deterioration
- Inspect fuel lines and connections
- Inspect all lights and position of headlights
- Inspect the vehicle underbody for damage or deterioration
- Perform multipoint inspection
- Road test vehicle
[/B][/QUOTE]
^^^^^^^^^^^ Yup. What he said. |
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| droeun |
quote:
Originally posted by jarizzo
Hi droeun, and welcome to HondaPilot.org! To answer your concerns:
I would have the rear diff. fluid changed. It's called VTM-4 fluid, it's a Honda fluid, and it's important to change it if not for the fluid quality then to clean off the magnet that collects metal shavings. Without cleaning it off, more filings could be sloshed around the differential and cause higher wear and possibly premature failure. The cost of the diff. fluid change may be higher than the transmission fluid change, but if it was me, I would do it, especially if you plan to keep the Pilot into its high mileage years.
The transfer case takes 80W-90 or SAE 90 hypoid gear oil, but just about 1/2 a quart. Others have used synthetic 75W-90 hypoid gear oil with no reported issues that I'm aware of. The transfer case is located just behind the transmission and I would change that one as well, as recommended by the maintenance minder and the manual.
They should know to change the transfer case fluid, but it's worth mentioning. It's such a small amount of fluid and a quick change, so that shouldn't add much to the cost. Apparently 2006 was the first year for a separate transfer case fluid. Prior to that, the transfer case was lubricated by transmission fluid.
The trans fluid change takes somewhere near 3.5 quarts and there is no filter to change, so that shouldn't cost too much.
Hope that helps somewhat! Let us know if you have other questions and please do come back and tell us what you wound up doing and how much it cost.
Thanks and welcome again!
John
:7:
Wow thanks for the quick response =] I'm more of a computer nerd than a mechanic but I'll try to do the rear diff myself, being that some of these DIY's seem fairly straightforward. I'll let you know how it goes! |
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| jarizzo |
quote:
Originally posted by droeun
Wow thanks for the quick response =] I'm more of a computer nerd than a mechanic but I'll try to do the rear diff myself, being that some of these DIY's seem fairly straightforward. I'll let you know how it goes!
Computer nerds should have no problem with this stuff. It's just loosening drain and fill bolts and reinstalling them basically. You might want to pick up the crush washers for these items, as they are recommended by Honda and they don't cost much. The DIYs here should get you going.
If you do the trans fluid yourself, I personally think it's much easier to remove the trans fill plug than to fashion an itty bitty funnel for the dipstick tube, but it does take a long extension to get down to it and it can be sticky to break loose.
I think altogether there are 7 drain/fill plugs to remove/reinstall to do the oil, trans, transfer case, and differential, so 7 crush washers are needed and they are not all the same. If you give business to the dealership, get the VTM-4 and ATF from them and the crush washers. Use any modern API SM Energy Conserving 5W-20 motor oil and any 80W-90 or SAE 90 hypoid gear oil you want. VTM-4 fluid is sold in gallon jugs and you'll need one. ATF is by the quart and you'll need 4. One quart of gear oil and 5 quarts of motor oil. I hear bad things about Fram oil filters but I don't know if it makes any difference or not, so get the Honda one while you're there if you want. Do it yourself and you'll know it's done right!
Oh, and about the computer nerd part, you probably already know this but there are 10 kinds of people in the world: Those who understand binary and those who don't. :-)
Cheers!
John
:7: |
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