| normkol |
Yesterday, I changed the oil/filter, did the drain/fill of transmission fluid, VTM fluid, air filter and cabin filter.
I never had so much trouble with frozen bolts as I did doing this.
Both VTM bolts were a bear.
The worst one was the transmission filler plug. I had to use it since I didn't have a funnel small enough to go through the dipstick tube.
My hands are sore, my shoulders are sore.
I've got to get a piece of pipe to slip over the breaker bar to give me more torque.
I also changed my Rav4 V6's oil for the first time. It's a cartridge filter. Also not fun, but that's for another forum. |
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| jarizzo |
Assuming the various plugs you had to remove were previously torqued properly during prior service and the proper crush washers were replaced as required in the manual, they probably shouldn't have been such a bear to do. That said, of course, when I did those jobs I was surprised by how tough it was to break those plugs loose, especially on the differential. There must be something about the metals used or the washers or the torque that makes that initial break so hard. Once they're moving, they glide right out no problem, and torquing them up again is smooth as silk. Maybe a metallurgist or mechanical engineer can explain to us why they are that way.
When I did my transmission fluid, I was careful to replace the washers and I used a known-accurate torque wrench to tighten them up to the middle of the spec range. The next time I did it, the plugs were both real tough to break again, which surprised me as well.
As much of a chore as it may have been, don't you feel good that you were able to do it and that your Pilot is moving with fresher, cleaner fluids and clean filters?
You didn't mention what year Pilot you have, but at some point they changed the transfer case so it has its own 80W-90 gear oil instead of being lubricated by transmission fluid. If you have one of the newer ones (hoping someone will chime in here with the year they started doing that) you might think about replacing that gear oil in the transfer case also. It's a very simple job (except for breaking the plugs loose of course!) and it only takes a little less than half a quart of fluid. I bought a quart of synthetic 75W-90 gear oil and still have half left for next time.
John
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| normkol |
Sorry, I should have mentioned it was a 2005.
The VTM had been changed by the dealer twice, so I was also surprised at how tough it was to break the bolts free. The VTM fluid looked really clean, so I will not be doing this again for awhile.
The transmission had never been done. Surprisingly, the transmission drain bolt was the easiest of the bunch.
Yes, it's a feeling of satisfaction knowing the fluids are fresh, and by doing it yourself, you know what fluids are being used.
Since Honda uses special fluids, it is really risky taking it to an independent mechanic, unless you are certain he is familiar with Honda requirements. |
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| jarizzo |
quote:
Originally posted by normkol
Sorry, I should have mentioned it was a 2005.
The VTM had been changed by the dealer twice, so I was also surprised at how tough it was to break the bolts free. The VTM fluid looked really clean, so I will not be doing this again for awhile.
I have heard that a few times about VTM fluid and I noticed the same thing. Apparently Honda thinks it's still important to change it because they recommend it at 30k miles for normal service, IIRC. It's a little pricey to do it, but it's a fairly easy job so I plan to stick to the schedule even though it seems strange to be dumping out such clean-looking fluid. Maybe cleaning the magnet is what they really want to accomplish rather than refreshing the fluid.
I agree also with the idea of using Honda fluids. I'm not so sure about the motor oil, but for sure I would stick to Honda fluids for the transmission, power steering, and rear differential. You can even buy Honda windshield washer fluid concentrate and mix up your own blue Honda washer fluid! I'm pretty sure that's not necessary. The transfer case fluid they don't even apparently have a Honda fluid, but specify an 80W-90 or SAE 90 hypoid gear oil.
I haven't read much about coolant in the Pilots. Is the factory coolant something that can be replaced with an equivalent or better off-the-shelf product, or is that another of the "definitely use the Honda stuff" fluid? I would hope at least you won't need a breaker bar to get the radiator drain loose... :-)
John
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| normkol |
The Pilot, 2005 at least, uses Type 2 long life anti-freeze. It is non-silicate, non-borate.
I think there are equivalents out there, but I've never really checked.
I haven't touched it yet. |
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| jestmaty |
I've changed my tranny fluid 3 times now and each time I attack the filler bolt, it "challenges" me :)
Drain bolt... easy. Both fill and drain bolt VTM..... easy... Filler bolt on my '04 transmission.... a b**tch.
I think that the different metals ( bolt and tranny case ) are dissimilar and the heating/cooling causes the parts to gall. I'm not sure if that is the right word, but after gently tightening that bolt, it never fails to be a knuckle buster each time I change it.
I just use a 17mm socket at the end of an 18" extension being driven by a 1/2 drive. My knuckles and the underside of my hood are intimate now, having shared blood and paint with each other.
Congrats on saving $$ by doing it yourself. IIRC, there is a lot of 'inspecting' done at this service. Maybe saved yourself several hundred $$, enough to get a couple of fill ups in a couple of years:28: |
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| NJGuy |
The method I use to loosen the VTM bolts is to use a 1/2 socket wrench w/ a 3/8 adapter. I tap the near the end of the handle of the socket wrench with a rubber mallet several times in the counterclockwise direction. Works like a charm with no unnecessary effort or strain.
I haven't found an easy solution for the transmission filler bolt. I use a pipe to get more leverage; I'm still amazed how I get the bolt loose without injuring myself. The only way it can get easier is if someone builds a fixture that can secure the socket extension in place while turning the wrench. Seems like too much effort for what its worth. |
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| 75blazer |
| So I finally broke down and got a 1/2" F to 3/8" M adapter and used my impact to remove the bolts. Easy as pie..... |
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| pankaj2000 |
Last weekend, I just changed Transmission oil, Drain and Fill. Drain Bolt was too tight ofcourse pilot was on ground. After trying hard, I put pilot on Jack stand. More space and easy to turn socket. Opens quick.
I think, proper position to open bolt is very important........Right? |
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| Roger |
I just did the exact same stuff on my '04 last friday (45K also).
The cabin filter was a mess, the air filter was pretty clean, VTM was nice and shinny red, tranny fluid the same. I do all those every 15K (which worked out to just about two years this time), I may stretch out the VTM.
These things are not the easiest to wrench on. The biggest pain is putting in the tranny fluid (I have the oil jet kit installed in the fill hole from the recall). |
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| MSTEWART |
| I also have the transmission jet kit installed on my 03 Pilot and it is a real pain to fill the fluid through the dipstick hole. I just did the tranny & VTM swap two weeks ago since my rear diff was acting up. Does anyone have any ideas for filling through the small dipstick hole. My 02 Civic is a lot easier to fill up than the Pilot... :confused: |
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| Roger |
quote:
Originally posted by MSTEWART
I also have the transmission jet kit installed on my 03 Pilot and it is a real pain to fill the fluid through the dipstick hole. I just did the tranny & VTM swap two weeks ago since my rear diff was acting up. Does anyone have any ideas for filling through the small dipstick hole. My 02 Civic is a lot easier to fill up than the Pilot... :confused:
I use a piece of clear plastic tubing (we can it tygon tubing in the Navy) and shove it in the dip stick hole. I then attach it to a funnel and SLOWLY pour in the fluid.
This last time I had a small leak and ended up with a mess, it's hard to see own there!!
I've been tempted to just pull the oil jet thingy and just re-fill through there and put it back in, can't be that tough. |
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| MSTEWART |
| I thought about doing the same thing (removing the jet) but I was afraid that I would mess something up. I will try the plastic tubing idea next time around and see if that works better. I did notice that someone posted some pics of a funnel & plastic tube that was heated with a hair dryer. It looks like that will work out very well. I will let you know what I find out! |
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| 75blazer |
quote:
Originally posted by MSTEWART
I thought about doing the same thing (removing the jet) but I was afraid that I would mess something up. I will try the plastic tubing idea next time around and see if that works better. I did notice that someone posted some pics of a funnel & plastic tube that was heated with a hair dryer. It looks like that will work out very well. I will let you know what I find out!
I used the plastic tube method and it was pretty easy. The hardest part of the whole process was having to squeeze my hand down there to take it off and put it back on after checking the fluid level. |
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