| mmmmark |
My '06 2WD EX-L has developed some "changes" in brake behavior. It only has 34k on it.
My wife (it's her daily driver) has noticed that the brakes seem spongey. I blew it off for a few days, but then drove it and noticed that it is requiring more pedal pressure and physically goes further to the floorboard. In regular driving, it seems to brake ok.
BUT, at higher speeds, I tried some "panic stops" and the thing seems to be all over the place. Pulling a bit like diagonally opposite wheels are grabbing more. Until this past week, stops were rock solid, smooth and remarkable short. Now, they seem wildly out of control.
Pads are pristine, rotors the same--very little wear. No leaks. No brake fluid level change since new.
Took it into the dealership today. They say it is "normal" and they "can't tell any difference from other pilots". I honestly don't know what all they tested because I was out of town, but they claimed to have inspected everything.
We are NOT imagining the changes.
Can it be something with the electronics? brake booster? ABS? Something "just ain't right" |
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| Roger |
Not sure but I'd take it there and have them test drive it and a new one back to back with you in the car.
How's the tires/tire pressure? It could be a suspension component as well as something in the brakes.
I hate to say this but the dealers I've dealt with really blow off the ladies. |
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| sblvro |
| :rolleyes: air in the system. |
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| N_Jay |
quote:
Originally posted by sblvro
:rolleyes: air in the system.
You are good!
It is high on the list, but if the fluid has not been low and no other work was done on the brakes, it is hard (nearly impossible) for air to get in.
1) Could one or more of the brake pads/rotors picked up some oil, grease or other contamination?
Make a could of hard long stops. and drag your brakes for a 1/4 miles or so, then stop and check for any smoke, or unusual smell from any of the brakes.
Light fix, try washing down the rotors (both sides) with brake clean. Not easy, and get the pads at the same time.
Good fix, pull pads, clean rotors, clean pads, sand lightly, reinstall, re-bed pads.
2) Could the fluid be contaminated? Look in the reservoir to see if the fluid is cloudy at all. Bleed a little from each wheel and see if it is cloudy at all.
If it is, have the fluid changed. Maybe drive it a few weeks and change it again.
3) Air in system. Rare unless you have had some brake work done. Have system bleed. Maybe have fluid changed, since the work is about the same. |
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| mmmmark |
Good suggestions all. I'm also extremely skeptical about air since I've got no leakage and never had them changed.
The fluid looks pristine, so contamination doesn't seem likely.
The oil/grease theory on the surfaces themselves seems possible. The tech wondered about possible glazing, but a foreign substance almost seems more likely. Seems like glazing would be evident upon inspection, but I see nothing.
Driving (or extended braking) for a while ought to take care of the oil/grease (or working them over with brake clean). I'm not going to go to the touble to remove them and sand them.
I'll likely watch it for awhile. I'm still wondering if it could be an electronic component. |
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| jarizzo |
I had a car once where the balancer valve went bad. (it might be called something different, I can't remember) I don't know how they work on the Pilots, but I assume it has one. It basically balances hydraulic pressure between wheels and directs pressure to the front brakes more than the rear. When they go bad, the car will pull to one side or brakes on one or two wheels will get very hot. The problem in my case was the valve was sticking shut, so when I let off the brakes, the pressure wasn't being relieved properly to the driver's side front wheel and it was overheating badly. The pedal was also somewhat stiff and had less travel. The mechanic told me they have several failure modes, and the symptoms you're describing seems like it matches what he said. It might be worth asking about anyway.
Other than that, a spongy brake pedal with extra long travel has usually been air in the lines when I've heard of it before. I think Honda recommends having the brake fluid replaced every 3 years anyway IIRC, so if you have them do that, they might find a problem with the valve while they're working on it.
A couple thoughts anyway. Good luck...
John
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| netman88 |
These are Honda Brake pads?
If so, I agree it's probably air. |
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| brknardo |
Had similar problems. Brakes would start to drag and eat pads. I replaced pads rotors etc. Pistons were smooth and not hanging up. What I found was the spring clips in the rear hold the pad so tight (almost appears to be tapered) that when any amount of brake dust builds up it prevents the pad from backing off slightly (therefore the pad remains incontact with the rotor until it wears. this also kills gas mileage. Eventually the pad stops moving when the brakes are applied (when you try to remove the pads they are so tight I had to pound them out with hammer and chisel)
I'm getting about 10K miles before I notice a softness in the braking which I believe is from the effect of just the front pads doing all the stopping (which leads to higher heat and warping of the front pads). I just went through the process last night and the brakes are back to being nice and firm. I've been debating on replacing the spring clips or replace the complete caliper (buy a loaded caliper with clips and pads) I'll more than likely do the complete package. Hope this info helps (by the way the dealer is the only one carrying the spring clips at $10 for each clip or $20/side) |
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| belundy |
Still under warranty, yes?
Take it back to the dealer and drive with a tech or service rep. Do a firm stop (no ABS engagement) with finger tips on the wheel on a level road. If it doesn't stop true, tell them you don't want it back until it does.
If they say it's "tires"--assume they are factory?--make them rotate left to right on both axles and test again. If it pulls same direction as before it aint tires.
Getting them to address slight to moderate difference in feel or pedal stroke will be tough if it otherwise brakes normally. |
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