| Closer_2001 |
Was doing the 90k service and noticed oil residue on the Passenger Rear shock. Priced OE at Honda, compared KYBs for $83 / Pair Shipped. Those were about half the price.
I highly suggest this upgrade! The truck doesn't squat on acceleration and is CONTROLLED yet comfortable. The fronts will probably get the same treatment shortly.
Took about 40 minutes to install taking my time.
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| Wolfman_matt |
Closer - Did you tow or carry loads that might cause the shock to fail?
I'm close to 100k and feeling like mine are a little worn in the rear. Never done shocks before though. What's the degree of difficulty and what tools are required.
Thanks Matt |
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| jestmaty |
I still think my Pilot has been mechanically perfect, altough, in reality, I had a rear shock and the OEM dvd player replaced b4 the 3/36 bumper to bumper warranty ran out.
I do tow a 2400 lb boat and trailer that may have contributed to the shock failure. Noticed the leak just like in the pic around 30k miles. I just waited until it was convenient for me to get to the dealer to fix... never noticed any handling degradation.
And... I have those exact same shocks on all 4 corners of my 1991 Nissan 240SX. I'm pretty sure the valving is a bit different than on the Pilot!! :2: |
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| rocky |
| IMHO, 60k is plenty for a shock to be well worn out |
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| Closer_2001 |
quote:
Originally posted by Wolfman_matt
Closer - Did you tow or carry loads that might cause the shock to fail?t
:D No heavy towing, but we did evacuate Hurricane Rita with a full load as well as made a HEAVY trip to Ikea
Forgot to answer the tools question...
A jack to raise the car. Jack stands to hold in the air. You will need a lug wrench to remove the wheels. A torque wrench to torque them back down. The shocks are bolted in with a bolt at the top and a nut at the bottom. I believe they are 15mm, but I'm not sure. I simply used a set of Metric Sockets and a 1/2" ratchet wrench (for good leverage). With the wheel removed, remove the bottom nut and top bolt. Compress the shock with your hands, rotating it down from the upper mount, allowing you to slide it off the lower stud. Take the KYB and reverse. Slide it over the lower stud (while compressed) release and allow it to glide up into the upper mounting position. Install the bolt. I torqued everything to about 25 as I couldn't find the torque spec. This felt good and snug, but not TIGHT!
I would consider this very simple.
The front is a different story. I will probably let someone else do it, as I don't have spring compressor, etc. |
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| tangotango99 |
| Very good price, where did you buy them from?. |
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| Closer_2001 |
quote:
Originally posted by tangotango99
Very good price, where did you buy them from?.
Search Fleebay
KYB Shock Absorber Acura MDX 02 01 3.5L V6 Gas Fuel |
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| Wolfman_matt |
quote:
Originally posted by Closer_2001
Forgot to answer the tools question...
I would consider this very simple.
Thanks again Closer...So a socket set is all I need...I may give it a try. My only concern is that I have one frozen in place and I don't have the tools to break it loose.
Did you use Auto Parts Warehouse or Car Parts Wholesale? |
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| Closer_2001 |
quote:
Originally posted by Wolfman_matt
Thanks again Closer...So a socket set is all I need...I may give it a try. My only concern is that I have one frozen in place and I don't have the tools to break it loose.
Did you use Auto Parts Warehouse or Car Parts Wholesale?
Mine came off easily - just get some PB blaster in case. You can always slide a piece of pipe over your ratchet for leverage. I usually do this to save wear and tear on me.
The exact seller was Replacementautoparts but it appears they are all the same company. |
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| rocky |
| Please don't work under the car just on a jack. Use axle stands as well. |
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| Closer_2001 |
quote:
Originally posted by rocky
Please don't work under the car just on a jack. Use axle stands as well.
I have jack stands on the car, just can't see it in the pic. Edited thread to relect. Totally agree:4:
I usually use the trailer hitch and/or control arm as a safety point. |
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